There was a growing demand for fine fabrics such as lace, damask, silk, and velvet, all embroidered with gold and silver threads and studded with pearls and jewels. Women's dresses were long and flowing, with a great deal of individual detailing. Men's fashions also attend to style and detail and could be just as elaborate.
Basic garments for women were a robe or a gown. This was styled high at the waist, low at the neckline, and tight around the bodice so as to flatten the chest. Since it was the fashion to have a protruding stomach, women would sew padding to the inside of the dress, just below the waistline. The skirt of the garment was long an full with a train in the back. A wide, decorated belt, or bandler, was worn around the waist. Many different styles of sleeves were popular, most wrist or elbow length. Some were even so long as to reach to the ground. Certain interchangeable sleeves were tied to the bodice at the armhole. Ties were made of silk ribbon and placed in many parts of a garment to hold parts together; they were used on both men's and women's clothing. Sometimes ladies would wear a second belt low on the hips. From the end, which dangled close to the ground, they would hang keys, a scissors, or a little mirror. Women also wore many types of undergarments such as a corset and a full-length chemise. Coats were made for indoor and outdoor use for warmth. They had high necklines and long full skirts with trains.
The basic garment for men was the pourpoint. It was a kind of shirt with a high standing collar, and it was fit to show the natural contour of the body. It opened at the center front and flared out from the waist to the hipline. Later, the garment was shortened to just below the waist. The sleeves were tight and full-length, and the whole garment was padded for warmth and shaping, especially at the shoulders. Men would wear a linen shirt under the pourpoint, which was full and gathered at the neck and tied with cords. Men wore long heavy hose tied to a waistband by fabric tapes. They were tighta nd had a kind of triangular flap as a flyfront, which was also tied shut by cords or tape. Sometimes this flap was padded and it was often used to carry small coins. Some of these stockings were very elaborately decorated with stripes of several colors, jewels, and embroidery. Men also wore long or knee-length robes, cinched low on the body by a belt. A kind of loose caftan, an influence from the Far East, was also worn later, and might have included a hood.
Accessories for both men and women included hats and other types of head coverings. They ususally were cap like or turban styles, fitting close to the head. They became hgihly decorated and elaborate in some cases.
Shoes had pointed toes, sometimes creating a problme walking. The tips were held upright by a thin chain extending around the calf of the leg. Women wore fur-lined leather boots during the winter. For outdoor wear, they strapped on tall plaform-type shoes. Some were so high that the woman needed to be helped to walk.
Gloves were very popular, as well as fans, perfumes, walking sticks, handkerchiefs, and small pursese or bags which hung from belts. (Pockets were not yet invented) Hairstyles during the 15th century were very full, including twisting and curling the hair to pile high on the head. A high pale forehead was popular and women often plucked their hair to achieve this look. Women wore lots of cosmetics--creams, perfumes nad make-up.
The problem that presented itself was one of over indulgance. Fashion and the taste for luxury became such a rage among the rich that "sumptuary laws" were issued to moderate the trend.